Leros, Day 2 – Magic Sunday

My first morning in Leros, the Sunday, I walk to Panteli after breakfast. It was a lovely walk and a lot easier than I expected. The forlorn mood I had been in the day before had made it seem miles away, and I had felt very isolated where I was staying. In the end it turned out that Panteli was a mere 20 minute amble up the road to the crest of the hill and then down a winding path to the village itself.

Panteli was very pretty and very quiet, it still being off season, and there was a string of small laid back eateries along the beach serving the locals and the few tourists that were around at this time of year.

I had a wander around and then settled into a small café and had the most wonderful Greek coffee and Baklava and whiled away a pleasant hour daydreaming and looking out to sea, thinking about where I am, and thinking about my father. Had he stood on this beach, had he navigated this bay 83 years ago? Very probably yes.

Contented, I then headed back to my guest house in Vromolithos, checking out Dimitri’s Taverna at the top of the hill on my way, and chosing it as my destination for dinner that evening

Given that it was a Sunday and the roads would be a little quieter, I decided I would do a recce in my car.

When I had arrived the day before I had contacted Dipiero Franco, my contact in Lakki who is a local historian with a great interest in the Battle of Leros, and who is connected with the War Museum. He had suggested we meet on Monday morning so I decided to drive into Lakki to get a feel of the place.

Lakki was very quiet, with only a couple of small cafes open. I parked my car and took a look around. Lakki was of huge strategic importance in this part of the Aegean during WW2 because of its unique large, deep water harbour that has a narrow entrance that is easy to defend. The town itself is very interesting having been built in the (Italian) Fascist Rationalism style on the orders of Mussolini, and many of the buildings have been lovingly restored.

I didn’t stay long, but now had a better idea of the place. I then drove on through Lakki up to the War Museum, which is closed on a Sunday, but now I knew where it was I could relax about looking for it the next day.

This whole excursion took very little time so I decided to drive back to Ahgia Marina to where I had picked up the hire car. The car had been handed over to me in a dusty car park behind the office, and I had driven off out down a windy lane, then up a small road that finally led, after about 15 minutes and a few wrong turns, to where I am staying. I then realised I had no idea of how to get back to where I had picked it up and would have to drop it off again the following Sunday. Seeing as I had plenty of time to spare, I decided I would go and see if I could suss out where I would need to take the car back to. I found the main route easily enough, and then was fortunate to spot the small road that I had come up the day before. I headed down it realising I had no idea where to go, and not confident that there would be any signs to help me.

As I came to the bottom of the hill I noticed a car coming the other way turn off into a small lane to my right, and for some reason I decided that they were going to where I needed to go. So I turned right to follow them, and there they were doing a three point turn so they could head back the way they had just come. Hmm. Undeterred I continued down the lane, and hey presto there was the dusty car park I was looking for. I was delighted with myself, and was feeling blessed and guided by the spirit of my father.

Feeling very contented and at ease I turned around and headed back to where I was staying. This time I did not miss the small turning that takes you directly to Vromolithos and carefully headed down its narrow windy way.

I passed Dimitri’s Taverna where the road turns sharply right, then left before going steeply down to the bay. I took it very slowly, and as I came round the left-hand bend a motorbike came swinging up the hill causing me to brake and swerving slightly to avoid him. It was all very quick and seemed fine, and then I heard a loud sickening thud as I whacked a parked car on my right. I couldn’t believe it.

I carefully pulled over and got out of the car, resisting the adrenaline fuelled impulse to run away from the scene. The motorbike whizzed to the top of the hill where he stopped to talk to people who were coming out to see what the commotion was. I stood by my car and resigned myself to my fate as three guys came walking down towards me. I of course had no idea how friendly, angry or whatever they might be.

At first they said little, two standing back smiling, the owner of the car crouching down and looking at the damage where I’d brushed his car with mine. He stood up and smiled saying  “no problem, only small damage, no problem” I was stunned, not sure if I’d understood, and wondering what to do. He smiled again saying  “ all is okay. Go now. Enjoy your holiday” and walked off.

I got back into my car hugely relieved and drove back to my hotel. I examined the damage to my car, it seemed superficial and most of the marks down the side of it wiped off very easily. There was a little damage to the paintwork on the wheel arch, but no dents so I cleaned it all up deciding I would deal with it when I returned the car the following week.

The  day had turned out alright despite my mishap in the car. All day, and since I had arrived  I had been feeling a little jittery, as if some strange energy were moving through me. I was able to stay with it, not to overthink or try to fix it. I did my best to stay with the moment and then do whatever seemed the next thing to do. This trip, now it had started, was going to take on a life of its own I realised. I also realised I had no idea of why I had come or what I was looking for or expecting, and I was slowly finding a way to be okay with that. I had come here because I needed to come here. In the context of all that, the minor accident in my car and its outcome seemed almost miraculous.

That evening I felt very buoyant , and had a lovely dinner at Dimitri’s Taverna at the top of hill, overlooking the bay below. It was perfect.

I truly believed I had entered into a magical realm, where my father and the angels were looking down on me. It is fabulous what we can choose to believe, and really truly believe. With this in my heart I walked back to my room on a mystical cloud, then slipped into bed for a contented night’s sleep.